Do you shop auctions, or plan to buy retail?
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I want to cut Steel and wood. And every operation that I can't do on a table saw.
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I hope it is not insulting as to what you already know: keep in mind that wood cutting saws tend to run somewhere over 3,000 ft/min band speed. Bigger/"commercial" tend to run around 4,500 fpm.
Unfortunately, steel is cut with band speeds slightly under 100 ft/min. Stainless, maybe even less. Depending whether you are using carbon steel bands, or HSS. Hence, to cut steel on a bandsaw tends to require a gearbox and several speed ranges.
I sometimes saw aluminum on my woodworking bandsaws, but as others noted, never with a good blade - it will dull it for fine wood cutting. For that matter, I sometimes saw aluminum up on one of the table saws. Again, not with a good blade that will be used with wood. All due safe practices observed, of course.
Where this is going: if you are stuck on one saw to do it all, get a good one proven to be convenient to change over, and proven to be a good performer in both roles. The classic machine would be a 16" DoALL, or a Grob (still made in USA!) Some Grobs do have weird guides, which may or may not be an advantage. They can also be changed.
At a lower price point, Rockwell Delta's 14" wood-metal cutting saw is highly respected. So is their 20" version. Powermatic made analogs of both, and may be even slightly better but a little less common.
It might be cheaper and more convenient in use, to get a 14" metal cutting saw, and a 16" or larger wood cutting saw. It is a real nuisance to clean the cutting fluid off a machine after sawing steel, change the blade, change the guides or at least the guide setting, re- set the speeds, and then saw wood. Let alone if you have to go back & forth a few times a day.
To get the best performance out of a bandsaw especially in wood cutting mode does involve a deeper understanding of machine factors and "tuning" or set up, than say a table saw.
smt