[MatiasMyles]

I own a 10 foot Brunswick and I'm looking to recover my table as the bees wax has lifted and pulled away from the seams. I think it is from vacuuming the felt with a shop vac and it sucked up some of the bees wax and pulled it away from the seam.

Someone told me to mix something else with the bees wax which makes it harder.

Any suggestions on which felt to purchase and what to use on the seams will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[JusticeNJ]

I put 860HR on my table and about a year in, it's still pretty good. I guess it is a hair faster than regular 860.

I find 760 to be fairly unplayable, even for straight pool. I know some people feel differently though, so just my .02.

I play 14.1 almost exclusively on the table. A good ball polisher and de-humidifier and/or AC unit (if you don't have central AC in the room) will go a long way in the balls coming apart and the table playing fair.

[Bob Jewett]

Originally Posted by MatiasMyles

... Any suggestions on which felt to purchase and what to use on the seams will be greatly appreciated.

Whether you want to use 860 or 760 depends some on your conditions. If your room is fairly humid, you may want to go for the higher speed of 760. John Schmidt's high runs were on 760 but the room is about a mile from the Pacific Ocean and the humidity stays high.

As for the seams, you probably should ask in the table mechanic forum. I believe that some installers use nothing in the seams but glue the slates together with super glue on a piece of paper between the slates. Maybe they add something to fill any chips. Whatever you do use should be able to withstand a vacuum.

[MatiasMyles]

Originally Posted by MatiasMyles

I own a 10 foot Brunswick and I'm looking to recover my table as the bees wax has lifted and pulled away from the seams. I think it is from vacuuming the felt with a shop vac and it sucked up some of the bees wax and pulled it away from the seam.
https://speedtest.vet/ https://vidmate.bid/
Someone told me to mix something else with the bees wax which makes it harder.

Any suggestions on which felt to purchase and what to use on the seams will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

I got this on my own,..

[DynoDan]

Originally Posted by JusticeNJ

I find 760 to be fairly unplayable, even for straight pool.

The ball speed at that last 14.1 tournament in Virginia Beach looked pretty good to me. But then, they were close to the ocean also. Once 760 gets fairly well worn, and if you have solid climate control, only then will you likely find it too fast, and thus it might put you at a disadvantage when playing out in the commercial rooms that seem to prefer 860 HR these days.
Also, if you use a shop vac to clean the cloth, get the prober brush attachment that limits suction.

[Straightpool_99]

760 is borderline unplayable the first couple of weeks or days with heavy play, then slows down and keeps its speed relatively well. It's playable until you wear completely through it. 860 loses its speed pretty fast and becomes a rug after a few months. You'll want to change it long before it wears completely out. Its also very susceptible to weather effects, especially high humidity, which slows it way down.

860 makes a lot of sense for a tournament with brand new cloth. All high wool content cloths play well in the beginning, but it doesn't last. The tournament players who play on 860 get something that plays like worn in 760, instead of brand new 760, which is like ice for at least the first couple of days. After that, 760 will have a very workable speed for straight pool for the rest of its life. If you want high runs in straight pool, I think fast cloth is the way to go. The balls will separate better, you'll have a wider range of angles that can break the balls apart on your breakshots, you can do more with the cueball.

You're allready on a 10 foot table. The last thing you want on that is slow cloth, unless you have arms like Arnold Schwarzenegger.

[ChrisinNC]

Originally Posted by MatiasMyles

I own a 10 foot Brunswick and I'm looking to recover my table as the bees wax has lifted and pulled away from the seams. I think it is from vacuuming the felt with a shop vac and it sucked up some of the bees wax and pulled it away from the seam.

Someone told me to mix something else with the bees wax which makes it harder.

Any suggestions on which felt to purchase and what to use on the seams will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Using Bondo on your slate seams is the only way to go!

[DynoDan]

When I replaced my worn 760 with new in early spring, the speed was noticeably slower. Has remained consistent ever since, but with winter coming, I expect it will increase with use.

[Straightpool_99]

Originally Posted by ChrisinNC

Using Bondo on your slate seams is the only way to go!

I'm not familiar with the Bondo brand, though I understand it's the leading brand in the US. Using this kind of product on the slates is recommended, HOWEVER, if you're taking the table apart again, make sure to cut the seam with a razor blade before separating the slates, otherwise you might chip the slates when you pull them apart. This is especially true if the table allready had minor chips that needed to be filled.

It's a bit more work to get it perfect than beeswax, but it lasts longer.

[Poolmanis]

If you really want fast good cloth take Simonis 950 RUS Pro. It is exactly same cloth than 760 but weave of cloth is different and cut of nap is different. Used on Pyramid tables normally. We used to have 760 in our Finnish Kaisa tables. That game need fast cloth. Then we had couple Pyramid tables and they came with RUS Pro 950 and after some time we noticed how good 950 is. We then decided to get that cloth to Kaisa tables too. It also last longer than 760 and how cloth takes spin is near how 860 does. Great cloth. Almost like 860 HR. Just faster.

Dunno if it on sale in U.S though.. maybe.

[Poolmanis]

Originally Posted by Bob Jewett

As for the seams, you probably should ask in the table mechanic forum. I believe that some installers use nothing in the seams but glue the slates together with super glue on a piece of paper between the slates. Maybe they add something to fill any chips. Whatever you do use should be able to withstand a vacuum.

Also I recommend to use pieces of paper with strong super glue to make slates like one piece. I then use on seams Plastic Padding PP 100 because it does not shrink and quite fast to harden. Good table mechanic should be able/know how to glue slates. Then they keep as one until you rip them apart.

Just my 2 cents as table mechanic

[Poolmanis]

Forgot to warn also. If someone get that 950 Simonis RUS Pro, Weave is different and it won´t rip straight with hands like 860 or 760...

[xXGEARXx]

760.......