[DrCue'sProtege]

https://pad-v1.chalkysticks.com/c7f69.png

I had this shot earlier. I wanted to go from the 2B to the 3B. It was one of those tweener shots.

Now let me say the diagram might not be perfect here. So let me just say this shot has too much angle to hit the 2B down in the corner and hold the CB for the 3B.

Plus the angle is such that it would be somewhat difficult to go across the table for position on the 3B. Like I said, its a tweener.

How would you play this shot?

r/DCP

p.s. ALL IDIOTS AND THOSE WITH IDIOTIC COMMENTS PLEASE STAY OUT OF THIS THREAD. Lets have a serious discussion here, please.

[evergruven]

Originally Posted by DrCue'sProtege

https://pad-v1.chalkysticks.com/c7f69.png

I had this shot earlier. I wanted to go from the 2B to the 3B. It was one of those tweener shots.

Now let me say the diagram might not be perfect here. So let me just say this shot has too much angle to hit the 2B down in the corner and hold the CB for the 3B.

Plus the angle is such that it would be somewhat difficult to go across the table for position on the 3B. Like I said, its a tweener.

How would you play this shot?

r/DCP

p.s. ALL IDIOTS AND THOSE WITH IDIOTIC COMMENTS PLEASE STAY OUT OF THIS THREAD. Lets have a serious discussion here, please.

not an instructor
I don't see many (good) options besides what you mentioned
I agree, it looks tight to try and hold the cb
I think outside or even center might bring the side pocket into play
so, a little bit of inside on the cb, back and forth across the table
is what looks good to me

[BC21]

A little top, about half a tip or so above center cb. As long as the cb gets back back across the table (anywhere between the center line and the same rail where the 2 is) you'll get a good shot to get from the 3 to the 6. I'd prefer to shoot the 3 from a out where the 2 is. From there you'd need no side spin, just straight top to roll around 2 rails and back to a shot on 6.

[Bob Jewett]

In general you have to be able to shoot the shot both ways. Also, you have to know how far the cue ball will come off the cushion if you just get the OB to the pocket. For your diagram, that's a little past the center of the table. Try and see for what you feel is the accurate angle.

Personally, I'm not comfortable slow rolling that shot unless I'm on a known, trustworthy table. The twice across allows me to play better position and for me it is a more comfortable shot.

[Patrick Johnson]

Originally Posted by DrCue'sProtege

...this shot has too much angle to hit the 2B down in the corner and hold the CB for the 3B.

Plus the angle is such that it would be somewhat difficult to go across the table for position on the 3B.

How about just rolling the CB softly and taking a slightly longer shot at the 3?

I think you can get good enough at both shots so there are no tweeners.

pj
chgo

[DrCue'sProtege]

Originally Posted by Bob Jewett

In general you have to be able to shoot the shot both ways. Also, you have to know how far the cue ball will come off the cushion if you just get the OB to the pocket. For your diagram, that's a little past the center of the table. Try and see for what you feel is the accurate angle.

Personally, I'm not comfortable slow rolling that shot unless I'm on a known, trustworthy table. The twice across allows me to play better position and for me it is a more comfortable shot.

Attachment 558142

Bob,
How would you shoot the twice across shot? High center, perhaps?

[measureman]

This is a pretty basic position shot.
Just go back and forth this is easy.

[Bob Jewett]

Originally Posted by DrCue'sProtege

Bob,
How would you shoot the twice across shot? High center, perhaps?

I would use a little right to keep the cue ball from going away from the next ball. Follow, of course, as you want the cue ball rolling smoothly when it hits the object ball.

[straightline]

I often bunt these with maximum outside. Cue ball dies and stays on the three. It's very reliable once your arm gets the all spin no speed idea in its fibers. That said, common sense dictates that if the table is fast, just let the ball go with as minimal adjustment as you can get away with.

[BC21]

Got home from work and set the shot up. Shot it once and didn't quite get where I wanted for the 3 but worked it out. The first clip is on my table, 8ft Diamond. Then I went to the poolhall to meet a guy for a 1hole match. He was late...so I set the shot up again on the 9ft and tried getting straight in on the 3. I meant to roll forward a few inches to be strsight in on the 6 but didn't hit the stun roll very well. Still workable though.

https://youtu.be/cV4VFW_adWc

https://youtu.be/uKedEGieVV4

[Patrick Johnson]

Originally Posted by Bob Jewett

... you want the cue ball rolling smoothly when it hits the object ball.

Why is that?

pj
chgo

[Bob Jewett]

Originally Posted by Patrick Johnson

Why is that?

pj
chgo

The alternative is for the cue ball to arrive at the object ball with some amount of sliding/stun/draw. The amount that it has will change the rebound angle. The amount is, in general, a hard thing to control over various distances and playing conditions.

If instead you try to let the cue ball roll when possible as a general practice, you are not running into those complications. You are not fighting against the balls and conditions.

Of course there are situations where you need to take more control of the cue ball. On the OP shot, you can only come back to a certain angle with a rolling cue ball. If you want the right side spin to be more effective, you have to get rid of the follow.

[Bob Jewett]

The other way to avoid fighting the conditions is to play much closer position. Leave the cue ball six inches instead of a foot from the OB. Or a foot instead of two or three feet. I think that's what the top straight pool players used to do.

If the cue ball is close to the object ball, the table conditions don't have time to mess with your spin. What you start with is nearly what you get.

At a couple of tournaments back in the 1970s and 80s I recorded the shot distances of every shot played in multiple matches. Irving Crane -- who was the major "old style" player competing at that time -- had the lowest average shot distances of all the players I clocked. And that was in spite of the fact that he played too "loosely" for one old-timer in particular. I was sitting next to Mike Eufemia at one tournament watching Crane play. I thought Crane was playing well and fairly conservatively. Eufemia's somewhat disgusted comment was, "What a showboat."

I wish I had seen Mosconi, Cranfield and Eufemia play. I suppose I could have but I didn't realize I should have at the time.

[evergruven]

Originally Posted by Bob Jewett

The other way to avoid fighting the conditions is to play much closer position. Leave the cue ball six inches instead of a foot from the OB. Or a foot instead of two or three feet. I think that's what the top straight pool players used to do.

If the cue ball is close to the object ball, the table conditions don't have time to mess with your spin. What you start with is nearly what you get.

At a couple of tournaments back in the 1970s and 80s I recorded the shot distances of every shot played in multiple matches. Irving Crane -- who was the major "old style" player competing at that time -- had the lowest average shot distances of all the players I clocked. And that was in spite of the fact that he played too "loosely" for one old-timer in particular. I was sitting next to Mike Eufemia at one tournament watching Crane play. I thought Crane was playing well and fairly conservatively. Eufemia's somewhat disgusted comment was, "What a showboat."

I wish I had seen Mosconi, Cranfield and Eufemia play. I suppose I could have but I didn't realize I should have at the time.

neat anecdote and good advice, bob- thanks for sharing

[measureman]

Originally Posted by Bob Jewett

The other way to avoid fighting the conditions is to play much closer position. Leave the cue ball six inches instead of a foot from the OB. Or a foot instead of two or three feet. I think that's what the top straight pool players used to do.

If the cue ball is close to the object ball, the table conditions don't have time to mess with your spin. What you start with is nearly what you get.

At a couple of tournaments back in the 1970s and 80s I recorded the shot distances of every shot played in multiple matches. Irving Crane -- who was the major "old style" player competing at that time -- had the lowest average shot distances of all the players I clocked. And that was in spite of the fact that he played too "loosely" for one old-timer in particular. I was sitting next to Mike Eufemia at one tournament watching Crane play. I thought Crane was playing well and fairly conservatively. Eufemia's somewhat disgusted comment was, "What a showboat."

I wish I had seen Mosconi, Cranfield and Eufemia play. I suppose I could have but I didn't realize I should have at the time.

I played Willie straight pool in an exhibition in 1964.
He ran 85 and out and never shot a hard shot or was more then 18 inches away from the object ball.
I've seen a lot of the great straight pool players since 1964 and nobody I ever saw did that.
I sat ten feet away and watched Irving Crane run 141 and while quite a feat it was not as impressive as Willies 85.
He was truly a one of a kind.