Ferrule on revo shaft
Posted 01-24-2020 at 07:26 AM by Snooker Theory
=jrctherake;6564721]I was curious so, I had my cue guy put a ferrule on my revo long before most other cf shafts with ferrules came out.
I had my cue guy glue a very, very thin fiber pad directly to the red pad.
Then I had him glue a piece of tomahawk to the fiber pad...
Then my tip..
I started out with a full .5" ferrule. It was to much and totally changed the deflection properties of the revo.
So, I then had him tip take the newly installed tip off (ouch...kamui tip) the very same day and trim the tomahawk ferrule down to 3/8".
At 3/8", the shaft played closer to hiw it was intended but, it still deflected the cb more than it did when factory.
Well, once again I had my cue guy cut yet another new tip off and take a little more tomahawk off.
This time, I had him take it down to 1/4". At 1/4" it played good, even closer to factory deflection and energy transfer but, I wanted the true sweet spot......so....lol
I had yet another tip cut off and had him take it down to exactly 1/8" inch.
At 1/8" the tomahawk ferrule gave just enough visual aid but, at the same time, it played identical to the way it did from factory.
BTW, my cue guy says the reason for the thin fiber pad between the 1/8" tomahawk ferrule and predator's red pad was to control "where" it fails in case it fails.
By putting the pad there, the point of failure would be the "thin fiber pad".......it would tear...therefore keeping the red lad intact.
I tried it. It works great.
At 1/8" the revo hax the exact same playing characteristics as a factory revo.....all except ONE part.
Adding the ferrule, even just an 1/8" ferrule, did away with a lot of the energy transfer and it made the hit much softer.
So, in the end:
If you want a cf cue to be really low deflection but, FEEL and SOUND ....exactly like most high-end wooden shafts....add the ferrule.
Again, it wont have the energy transfer as a factory revo does but, it will have as much as any wooden shaft has ever had.
It works!
Jeff[/QUOTE]
I had my cue guy glue a very, very thin fiber pad directly to the red pad.
Then I had him glue a piece of tomahawk to the fiber pad...
Then my tip..
I started out with a full .5" ferrule. It was to much and totally changed the deflection properties of the revo.
So, I then had him tip take the newly installed tip off (ouch...kamui tip) the very same day and trim the tomahawk ferrule down to 3/8".
At 3/8", the shaft played closer to hiw it was intended but, it still deflected the cb more than it did when factory.
Well, once again I had my cue guy cut yet another new tip off and take a little more tomahawk off.
This time, I had him take it down to 1/4". At 1/4" it played good, even closer to factory deflection and energy transfer but, I wanted the true sweet spot......so....lol
I had yet another tip cut off and had him take it down to exactly 1/8" inch.
At 1/8" the tomahawk ferrule gave just enough visual aid but, at the same time, it played identical to the way it did from factory.
BTW, my cue guy says the reason for the thin fiber pad between the 1/8" tomahawk ferrule and predator's red pad was to control "where" it fails in case it fails.
By putting the pad there, the point of failure would be the "thin fiber pad".......it would tear...therefore keeping the red lad intact.
I tried it. It works great.
At 1/8" the revo hax the exact same playing characteristics as a factory revo.....all except ONE part.
Adding the ferrule, even just an 1/8" ferrule, did away with a lot of the energy transfer and it made the hit much softer.
So, in the end:
If you want a cf cue to be really low deflection but, FEEL and SOUND ....exactly like most high-end wooden shafts....add the ferrule.
Again, it wont have the energy transfer as a factory revo does but, it will have as much as any wooden shaft has ever had.
It works!
Jeff[/QUOTE]
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